Blazers
Updated: Sep 28
Fall is here. It officially arrived yesterday on the calendar but, we've been feeling the temperatures cooling. My garden is dying back and my allergies have been tormenting me. The first frost will help that!
It's mum season. I always buy several pots of mums for my front porch and before it frosts, when I change the porch decor to spiderwebs and pumpkins, I plant the mums in my garden to see them come back for a couple years. They only come back three or four years but, they do come back.
Fall is my favorite styling seasons. The layers of fabric, the textures and the details allow creative people to show more of their personalities. The colors change outside and so do the colors in fall fabrics, to burgundy, brown, rust and golden yellow. A new pallet is welcomed and refreshing.
I just did my Fall closet review where I go through all my Spring/Summer clothing and let go of items I never wore switching the remainder to my off season closet. I pull my Fall clothing into my main closet but, before an item can have a place in my closet, I try it on again and evaluate the fit and fabric. It takes two days. Just because something fit well last year doesn't mean it will this year. I am still the same height and weight that I have been for over a decade but, gravity is real.
Thought: Our bodies are always changing with age. We can nip and tuck but they are still changing and how an item looks on us one year may not be as prime the next. We want the best. Move out anything that is less.
I can not lie, I LOVE a good blazer. Not everyone does. And different shapes call for different cuts to be flattering. The message a well tailored blazer sends is of formality, confidence, often authority and richness. If a blazer is over-sized it sends a casual carefree message. If a blazer is tattered, it may speak comfort, or down-trodden. A couple times I have been insulted for wearing suitcoats. I’ve found that it usually comes from insecurity or a lack of understanding how clothing fits for different body shapes. But often, I'm treated more respectfully when wearing a blazer. There's just something about a blazer that gives that polished look.
A good blazer can do more than send a message. If well fitted, it can give the wearer the appearance of curves for those that don't have curves (that's me). But, the details matter because if it’s not right, it can do just the opposite. I've heard the comment that, "blazers just hide weight". If that's true, it's a great blazer! Where it all the time! But, that's a pretty general statement.
I reviewed my blazers and I purged quite a few this year. I’m so glad mammoth shoulder pads are not the rage anymore. We'll still see them but, not in 75% of the retail options. I had gotten a couple blazers with linebacker size shoulders because it was trendy but with broad shoulders, it did me no favors. I had avoided wearing them and as I critiqued them on me, I could see why.
I heard a stylist say if her wardrobe was destroyed and she had to start over, she’d start rebuilding starting with her blazers because they are so versatile. I agree totally.
For straight girls, those of us who do not have an indent at our waistline, a good blazer can give the illusion of a curvier shape. That's why I love blazers so much!
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Some basic tips for finding that perfect fit.
Sleeves should end at your wrist bone. Shirt cuffs can peek out about a half inch further. I'm writing about classic blazers but, the rules change with bell sleeves and 3/4 sleeves. That opens up so many more options.
Shoulder seams should land right at your shoulder. When they hang over your shoulder, it’s an over-sized look and can add the appearance of broader shoulder. When the shoulders are too narrow (pulling closer to your neck) the blazer is too small and will pull in other areas, too (often at the bust or back). Shoulder pads give a more structured look. But, for those not needing bulk added to their shoulders, look for softer styles without shoulder pads.
When buttoning, the Bust should lay completely flat, not pulling or showing gaping space between buttons.
For a classic fitted blazer, we want the fabric to skim the natural Waist. This is one of the reasons finding that perfect blazer can be a pain. We’re all built differently with different proportions. We want the cut to follow the curve of our silhouette, not too close but, not too loose. And when frustrated … A good tailor is our friend.
Length is debatable. Traditionally, it is said that a blazer should land right at the hip. But, for wider hipped gals, this creates an accent line on the widest part of their body. I would suggest a blazer on a curvy gal should land on the down slope between the waist to the widest part of the hip and often short blazers are the better choice.
I'm so happy to be layering again this Fall and bringing out my fall blazers!! I hope you are too.
Happy Wardrobing!!
Twin Cities Stylist Kathy Banta
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My Crockpot Chili Recipe:
Throw together in a crockpot on Low at 9am and have dinner at 5pm. Serve with crackers.
1 cup chopped red onion
1/3 cup green pepper
1 tsp minced garlic
1 1/4 lbs ground turkey (cooked)
1 Tbsp chili powder
2 tsp oregano
1 tsp cumin
1/4 tsp salt
1/4 tsp pepper
1 (19 oz) can of cannellini beans
1 (14.5 oz) can of diced tomatoes
1 (14.5) can of kidney beans
1 (32 oz) beef broth
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Music: Local Musician Henry Blitzer
Your distinction between a classic fitted blazer and a deliberately oversized shape is useful. For someone sewing a jacket, I’d pin the proposed hem at two lengths and try both with the trousers it will actually be worn with. I’m writing from Sewlore, where our jacket pattern collection offers different silhouettes to compare. Before cutting the final fabric, I’d also check the buttoned front while sitting and reaching forward. That would tell me more than a standing mirror check alone.